As we know, for high-end custom suits, there are 3 kinds of canvas suits, including full canvas, half canvas and fused.
Canvas is usually a horsehair canvas, which is sewn between the lining and the cloth of the jacket. The canvas allows the suit fabric to drape properly and will mold to your body over time.
It aids in the longevity of the suit by distributing tension at stress points (shoulders, elbows), it allows the suit to “breathe” and holds up to repeated dry cleaning.
But how to distinguish the difference among these canvases, I believe there are few people to know.
Today, R.Prince will show more details about it.
About Full Canvas, the front fabric, interfacing, and lapel are filled with horsehair canvas. Pad stitching collar, shoulder shield are filled with high-quality hair canvas and flocking.
Full canvas suits are the best for you, meanwhile, the CMT also is higher than half canvas and fused.
A half canvased suit uses a sewn in canvas piece in the chest and the lapel of the jacket, besides, it is fused on the bottom part of the jacket. This allows you to have the canvas at the most important part of the suit and keeps the price down by having less handwork.
By selecting the fabric strictly and making suits in professional handwork, our custom half canvased suits can display the quality of the fabric and elasticity of canvas. Besides, we broke the feeling of fused suits, like flat and rigid.
The fused suit was developed to appeal to the mass market. This is an interlining that is heat pressed (glued) to the wool of the suit. While it allowed for suits to be produced at a better price point, it also has a stiffness to the chest and if over dry-cleaned, can lead to bubbling in the chest area (this is caused when the wool separates from the fusing). It is also less durable over time and loses flexibility. Fusing is good if you want a price point suit and don’t plan on wearing it every day.